You can try that BUT when properly adjusting the band's the procedure is to tighten the adjusting screw to a certain inch torque value then back out the screw so many turns then lock it down. Specs are in service manuel. I personally would spring $20 to 25 bucks for a inch pound torque wrench at Harbour Freight. Your call, but you will sleep more soundly. Your bottom looks real good and should keep the rust worms at bay a long time.
Dick
That adjustment can be made without the motor running?! Without even any trans fluid ( which, I need to drain to Teflon tape the screw, and to replace the pan gasket)? That's easy-peasey - will get an inch-pound torque wrench at Harbor Freight.
I have used a paste Teflon sealer that came in a squeeze tube that worked very well. also a Loc-tite stick. I just would clean the adjusting bolt with some type of solvent first. DO NOT REMOVE THE ADJUSTING BOLT.
Hey Rick, I'm confused - if fluid is getting past the threads in contact with the nut, then it's getting past the threads in the housing. If I just seal the threads in contact with the nut, can't it seep through the face of the nut in contact with the housing? Or maybe I can put some paste at the base... Are you suggesting, I don't mess with the bolt at all?
I feel I did not explain this clearly. I should have added Just loosen the nut several threads, clean and brush in some paste and retighten the nut after final adjustment. Do not be afraid to do it. Just do not remove or over loosen the adjusting bolt, being it will require the removal of the trans.oil pan to put everything on the band anchor back together.
RICKYMOPAR wrote:... Just loosen the nut several threads, clean and brush in some paste and retighten the nut after final adjustment.
Ah. Meaning, I should back off the nut, clean up the threads, and follow the procedure Dick pointed me to in the manual - which is, torque the screw to 47-50 inch-pounds, then back out the screw exactly 3 1/2 turns. But, DON'T remove the screw (lest all h*ll break loose). Then, teflon and lock down the nut.
Hokay, some pitchuhs of Dans front splash pan and valance. Before, during and finished. I don't know if they will be in order or not, but you will get the idea. The valance brackets had to be welded back on and a few tears in the metal was welded.
Dick.
Dick, astonishing craftmanship! I can't wait until Faulkner is ready to be reunited with valence and splash pan.
Hey, waydaminit... Maybe I'm going about this all wrong.
Perhaps I should drive Faulkner down to Palm Beach Gardens, sitting on the patented Dick Koch milk crate seat, and reunite valence and splash pan with Faulkner! That way, I know the rest of the job will get done right.
Thanks, Dick, for your beautiful work and generous payment terms.
I am only fascinated by good body repair! Note: It makes me too angry and inpatient, when I try to do it myself, I need another "Colorado Native" I will bring some cases when I get back east.
I had a friend visiting from Louisiana, Austin enjoyed "Colorado Native" for breakfast, of course with normal breakfast fare. My Kids just couldn't believe he enjoyed life so much. Unfortunately, Austin My friend from La. has passed. He was stage four Big C. I am happy he found happiness and a relaxing time here. My kids learned a lot from Austin...about life. Remember to do what you enjoy. this is what I learned from Austin.
Bouncing back to an earlier discussion in this post:
Faulkner wrote: I'll be doing some work in and around the trunk soon. I'm going to wire brush the channel for the weather stripping, ospho and encapsulate it - along with the trunk - but between the channel and the body, there's some cracked putty. Is this original? Instead of breaking it all out - most of it is very tight - it might be worth caulking. What should I do here?
Dick Koch wrote:That looks to be some kind of factory installed sealer, my concern would be water seepage especially from the back side if possible. I would dig out as much as possible, sand to bare metal, ospho it, and apply JB Weld befoe priming so it has a good grip on the metal then prime.for a good seal. Make sure the channel has at least 2 coats of encapsulator, believe me, you dont want to have to replace that channel. I had to replace a corner section on Charleen. Thank goodness John Fowlie provided a replacement section.
There's been some related discussion about this today in the Forward Look Mopar Discussion email list:
On my 57-59 Coronets (4) there is, above the roof drip channel, a substance that seems to be a hardened material that has deteriorated over the years and is now cracked, curled or missing. What is this substance, what is it's purpose, and what can be used to replace it (assuming it must be replaced)?
From: Forward Look Mopar Discussion List [mailto:L-FORWARDLOOK@lists.psu.edu] On Behalf Of RICHARD SKINNER
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2016 7:10 AM
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@LISTS.PSU.EDU
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Forward Look Roofline Stuff
I used the 3M material on the roof gutter on my 1959 Plymouth. Great stuff and it has passed the test of time. Still in great condition after several New England winters and summers.
Wow! It's been a long time since I posted anything here.
A long time, since anyone's posted anything here...
Well, the holidays are upon us. But soon the shopping and making merry will be over, and I'll have a week off between Christmas and New Year's. Let's see if I can get anything done in the garage, with this:
I also ordered a ten-foot attachment with an adapter that let's you run it off a standard 20 lb. propane tank, instead of the weenie tank shown here.
I am only fascinated by good body repair! Note: It makes me too angry and inpatient, when I try to do it myself, I need another "Colorado Native" I will bring some cases when I get back east.
