Bending those little tabs is no mean feat. That rules out option # 2- I can't get a rail out, to replace it.
I tried taking the bend out "in situ":
The old man's vise and a pair of wood splintsWell, it's straight from five feet - got a little ding in the lip, though
I tried to emory out the ding (which of course, brightened up that spot with the anodize removed), but I don't think there's much more I can do with this.
What are the chances a I can find a used one without dings? At any rate, I left a message with Jim Hamsher, and sent a note to John Fowlie. Let's see what turns up.
And oh yeah, Dick - while going through the box with the grilles in it, I found these two pieces - I never did send them to you:
One is flattened a bit, and needs some TLC. May I send your way?
Hi Dan, there is this one on eBay for 99 bucks plus shipping :/ not sure if it's cheeper to fix and re-anodize or just get this NOS grille. Might be worth asking if he will make a deal on it.
Yup! Thanks, Will - I saw this last night, and put that question to the seller. This piece looks to be smooth, but Faulkner's are grooved. Otherwise, I would have snatched it in a heartbeat.
Dick, I got all of those emails, thanks! And I bought the NOS base molding from the link you sent me. The NOS grilles are phenomenally expensive, though - since I'm getting parts reanodized, a decent used one will do. There is one on eBay that might be worth the price, but I was holding off to hear from Jim Hamsher or John Fowlie.
big m wrote:I have piles of used grills, so if you are unable to get a good one from E-bay, let me know, and I'll see if I have a super nice one.
That's music to my ears, John! I'd much rather deal with someone I know and trust. Pick me out a super nice one (passenger side) and we will take it from there. Thanks!
Just a suggestion, to have one re-anodized they have to take it apart, and de-anodize it and
its prohibitably expensive. First i would try my tooghbrush trick with mag cleaner. Get a good one from John. Then try it.
Dick
Dick, I'll try it - but, I think Ron said he sent his out (along with a bunch of other aluminum parts). They dipped them somehow to strip the anodizing, then reanodized - without taking them apart. I dunno, maybe it's a Dutch thing? Matthew, can you comment?
I can say that I spot tested some Flitz polish on the gas flap aluminum, and the results were pretty good. I forget where I saw them recommended for aluminum, and I bought some. I will give it a try on the driver's side grille from Faulkner. Hey, I've got lotsa toothbrushes!
Score! John has a passenger grille piece with no dings or scratches, just needs cleaning and polishing - and a great price. Once again, Big M proves it is the go-to place for MoPar enthusiasts.
Dick, the trim pieces I waylaid is boxed up, and will be winging its way to Palm Beach Gardens in the morning.
I did a little engine compartment detailing today...
The poor man's bead blaster makes short cleanup of boltsIt looks like at least two of the bolts - the ones between the top of the water pump, and the bottom - penetrate the water jacket.Wire-brushed, vacuumed, mineral spirits, wipe and spray. Forgot to take a pic after I painted the pulley blackRockers look great! Like it had just been rebuiltOh, Yeah - It's Got a Poly!!Once red ('58 block), then silver, to be red again. All scraped and wiped down with mineral spiritsLike Matthew did 'emI'm thinking this red has a little too much orange in it for me... I might revisit the color
Any advice about PermaTex'ing the water pump bolts?
I'll be leaving the covers off until I am ready to start up the engine - I'll put a little oil on the rocker parts before any serious cranking.
I picked up the VHT engine paint for the valve covers when Ron, Matthew and I visited the Eastwood store in Pottstown.
The reason the paint looks a little orange to me, is because...Oh Noes! It's Bowtie Orange!I just happened to have a couple of cans of this -- I think I'll give it a try
Srlsly. I know the water pump gasket keeps water from leaking out from the pump chamber. But, the left and right bolts at mid-height don't go through this chamber, and apparently go through the water jacket (or else antifreeze wouldn't chase the bolts when I remove them). What's to keep fluid from seeping along the length of the bolt shaft, and out under the bolt head?
PermaTex, or no? (*Tap*, *tap*...) Hey, is this mike on?
I have used this before on a few engines to seal the water pump bolts and header bolts that go in to the water jacket. its Loctite Head Bolt and Water Jacket Sealant 1158514
Matthew, can you comment?
