I forgot to mention the foil packs that Roger talked about. I have mostly seen these on B and RB motors. These packs are being reproduced for the Muscle car era cars by a company back east. Bill Rolik Restoration I believe makes these packs.
I did have these Foil Pack on my 1960 413 motor but was almost disintergrated by oil , dirt and heat.. These pack were foil wrapped inuslation packs that were placed (Two of these packs) undereath the B/RB motor intake manifolds and the Valley pan. My old 70 Challenger Convert had these packs too.
The B and RB intakes are not subjected to direct contact with the lifter galley oil splash. So Cold starts are assisted by the intake Manifold to Cylider Head cross over tubes that help the B/RB motors heat up. My 60 413 Intake was caked shut with carbon deposit, which did not allow good cold start chracteristics. Had to chisel these open before boiliong the intake.
The Insulation Foil packs are easy to make your self for show points. They do provide some degeee of heat mitigation to the bottom of the B/RB intake from the Valley pan gasket. A minor point would be some quieter noise of the liter valley by these foil pads due to the kettle drum effect of the valley pan. I have not notice any sound deadening, but a long forgoton article in one of the Mopar Magazines had mentioned it. But the heat insulation aspect is why they are there on B/RB motors.
Roger points out this page from the shop manual, regarding the utility of the cross-over for preheating the fuel...
Shop Manual wrote:Layers of carbon act as a heat insulator and retard the heating action of the exhaust gases in the heat chamber of the intake manifold. Thus, fuel will not vaporize as much as it could, causing poor engine performance.
Hi, I am going to give you the old mechanical tech view of the oil baffle/shield and windage tray and what they are intended for without going to the deep end of the pool;
Oil baffle/shield, The heat crossover in the intake manifold gets so hot that it bakes the oil and impurities to the bottom of the intake, hard and chunky junk as shown by your pictures, the baffle/shield reduces the amount of this carbonized crud as well as captures that which is formed and keeps it out of your oil pump and screen. engines last longer
Some industrial engines didn't have a exhaust heat crossover, they were coolant heated intakes and didn't require the shields.
Windage trays help remove oil from the crankshaft recipricating area, using gravity and crank rotation. oil is slung off the crankshaft at pretty high speed, the oil flying up lubes the camshaft lobes and cools the bottom of your pistons. and is also thrown back down into crankshaft rotation. The windows in the tray shear and separate then direct the oil back to the sump of the oil pan. also stopping oil from splashing back into the cranksnaft from the oil pan sump. keeping oil in the sump is good.
Hi Ricky Mopar:
IF this crossover collects crud, why have it in the first place? Why create a plce where oil, etc can cook and bake into crud? Is there a purpose to pre-heating the intake? Is there a performance improvement? I can understand that keeping oil in the sump is a good thing, as well as having oil distributed evenly and consistently. what about the insulating pad I found in other engines?
Roger, The exhaust gas crossover and early fuel evaporation control valve or heat riser is entirely for driveability in cold weather driving and cold start units with automatic choke units. Again I was trying to stay out of the deep end of the pool where all the bodys are.
The latent heat of the vaporization of fuel is so great that the carburetor is actually a refrigeration unit, without some heat carburetors ice up and become non-functional.
The heat also aids in increasing fuel economy to a great extent. unfortunatly when the weather is warm the performance is seriously hindered by its existence, Oil refiners used to blend fuels for seasons and altitude,'The reid vapor pressure measurement system', I am afraid this no longer is a priorty. The drivability here in Colorado on a 90Degree F. day with our old cars can be very trying because of drivability problems like vapor lock and other causes of stalling due to the heat. We also have high solar radiation background heat added to the mix during the afternoon. I am thinking of blocking my heat crossover and using a water heated carb mount. being I seldom drive in below freezing weather any more. I hope this answers your question.
Roger, I will tell you what I know about the B and RB foil and fiberglass pad. The early B engines have a couple of problems. air passing under the manifold lost a lot of heat duriong cold weather driving conditions. The pad retains heat under the manifold, and keeps undesireable things from cooking under there. cast iron transfers heat slowly as compaired to the aluminum intake manifolds. Second,the early intake gasket or turkey pan would crack at the corners and leak some oil making a mess. the pad absorbs some of the engins natural harmonic vibrations reducing the pan cracking. The turkey pan or intake gaskets were reengineered and had some lines embossed into them also reducing this cracking and oil leakage problem.
Well, TWSAM should have been done by now -- but I ran into a snag, removing the oil pan drain plug. I just couldn't shake the sucker lose... And it was tough crawling under the car. I ended up buying a monster adjustable wrench, and jacking the front end of the car in the air (Dick, I could have used your lift right about now). After bashing my knuckles and sharing profanity with no one -- why is that sucker so tight? -- it finally came loose.
What?! No washer?!!
Maybe that's why it was so tight -- to keep it from leaking, because the guy who last did the oil change (and who put my intake manifold on, BTW) didn't put one back on. Hmmm..... I'm having second thoughts about going back there again.
So I bought a 22mm copper grommet -- closest I could find at Pep Boys -- and snugged the plug back up after draining. Poured 4 quarts of Quaker State into the block, and I'm not seeing any leaks; I guess I'm OK.
I did see some tiny antifreeze droplets in the drained oil, though. It was a good idea to chase the antifreeze with oil -- I'll be keeping a close watch, and change the oil again if I see any antifreeze on the dipstick.
It's over 90F in Philly, though, and even hotter in the garage. I'm ready to call it quits for the day. Maybe if it cools down, I'll check the torque again and touch up the manifold paint -- but enough for now.
All back together! Not that I'm not dripping in sweat... But all the hoses are reconnected, the carb and distributor locked down, the manifold paint touched up. Ready to fire up some night this week!
Remarkable, though, that in the week's time of just sitting there, many of the bolts needed retorqueing. If these composite gaskets don't leak -- I will sing their praises! But they do require attention -- and I will give it to them, until we're all burned in.
I fired up Faulkner tonight -- let the 318 get good and warm, and then let it cool down. Ran smooth as silk! Best part...
...no leaks! And, not the least sign of antifreeze on the dipstick.
Now, to torque-test the bolts again this weekend, and take Faulkner out for a road test; check the bolts one more time, and we'll be road worthy! Thanks, Ed Eckerson, for your brilliant suggestions.
Nope, still there, Roger. I did buy the gasket kit and I have the pump; trying to decide if I should replace myself, or get the carb guy to replace the bushings where I occasionally leak fuel, and replace the pump at the same time.
